Thursday, February 5, 2009
In Pai, N. Thailand.
The last day in Chaing Mei we wandered into a Wat, and a monk was giving blessing of good luck to the locals. He waved us in and we also got the treatment. Chanting, water springles and a wrist band for good luck.
Landed in Pai after a 80 mile 4 hour bus ride over the mountains in a 3rd class bus. Wild ride and crammed with people. Wild and scenic jungle clad mountains.
Found the lovely Breeze Guesthouse for 600 baht (18 US), and it is luxury. On the river bank, just a block from the action. Pai (3000 pop) is a sort of Thai/bohemian/tourist hangout in a nice valley surrounded by tribal villages in the hills and mountains. One a weekend day it was crammed with Asian tourist, outnumbering westerners 10 to one. We walked to a village about 4 K out of town, and found that they had built sort of a tourist trap of souvenir shops next the the village, and vans full of Asians kept up a steady stream. But the walk between was full of authentic little shops, farms, and roadside alters to fertility.
The plan is to trek for 3 days, 2 nights in the mountains and visit more villages, but we are waiting for word that they have 2 more people to make it a 4 person expedition.
When we leave here we fly south to the beaches and islands of the Andaman Sea, most famous of which is Phuket.
The last day in Chaing Mei we wandered into a Wat, and a monk was giving blessing of good luck to the locals. He waved us in and we also got the treatment. Chanting, water springles and a wrist band for good luck.
Landed in Pai after a 80 mile 4 hour bus ride over the mountains in a 3rd class bus. Wild ride and crammed with people. Wild and scenic jungle clad mountains.
Found the lovely Breeze Guesthouse for 600 baht (18 US), and it is luxury. On the river bank, just a block from the action. Pai (3000 pop) is a sort of Thai/bohemian/tourist hangout in a nice valley surrounded by tribal villages in the hills and mountains. One a weekend day it was crammed with Asian tourist, outnumbering westerners 10 to one. We walked to a village about 4 K out of town, and found that they had built sort of a tourist trap of souvenir shops next the the village, and vans full of Asians kept up a steady stream. But the walk between was full of authentic little shops, farms, and roadside alters to fertility.
The plan is to trek for 3 days, 2 nights in the mountains and visit more villages, but we are waiting for word that they have 2 more people to make it a 4 person expedition.
When we leave here we fly south to the beaches and islands of the Andaman Sea, most famous of which is Phuket.
Wednesday, February 4, 2009
Brenda takes on the challenges of the trek.
The trek group in front of our hut.
We have been in the busy historic city of Chang Mei a week. We spent several days exploring the city, finding the extensive markets, and walking to Wats (Wat=temple). At one the sign encouraged us "chat with a monk" so we did. He spoke English, and even had a greeting in Gaelic when Brenda mentioned Ireland. We discussed his life and the practice of meditation. What he said about it is very much what is being taught here in the US, although he lives an cloistered life unlike most meditators. A highlight was a trek in the mountains to visit the Karen hill tribe villages. We walked for a few days and finished with a bamboo raft trip down river. It is hard to believe, but the Karen people live in mountainside villages, farm rice, corn and veggies, hunt and gather, and use bamboo for everything, including the houses. They also practice some slash and burn agriculture. We slept in bamboo huts for 2 nights and the guide and villagers prepared great fresh meals over a fire. The people here know very little of the outside world and very few have left the mountains ever. Motorcycles, solar panels and TV have made some inroads, but not much.
The trails we followed were all local hunting and farming trail, passing thru dense jungle and passing seasonal farming sites, where people spend the rice and corn growing season out in huts away from the village.
The first evening after dinner, we spent some time with an older village couple having tea and talking with Dat, our guide. Dat told us that he had never seen the ocean, and in his one trip to Bangkok he was so perplexed by the traffic that it took him an hour to cross one of the major streets. Dat is a great person, a Karen villager learning English.
The trek group in front of our hut.
We have been in the busy historic city of Chang Mei a week. We spent several days exploring the city, finding the extensive markets, and walking to Wats (Wat=temple). At one the sign encouraged us "chat with a monk" so we did. He spoke English, and even had a greeting in Gaelic when Brenda mentioned Ireland. We discussed his life and the practice of meditation. What he said about it is very much what is being taught here in the US, although he lives an cloistered life unlike most meditators. A highlight was a trek in the mountains to visit the Karen hill tribe villages. We walked for a few days and finished with a bamboo raft trip down river. It is hard to believe, but the Karen people live in mountainside villages, farm rice, corn and veggies, hunt and gather, and use bamboo for everything, including the houses. They also practice some slash and burn agriculture. We slept in bamboo huts for 2 nights and the guide and villagers prepared great fresh meals over a fire. The people here know very little of the outside world and very few have left the mountains ever. Motorcycles, solar panels and TV have made some inroads, but not much.
The trails we followed were all local hunting and farming trail, passing thru dense jungle and passing seasonal farming sites, where people spend the rice and corn growing season out in huts away from the village.
The first evening after dinner, we spent some time with an older village couple having tea and talking with Dat, our guide. Dat told us that he had never seen the ocean, and in his one trip to Bangkok he was so perplexed by the traffic that it took him an hour to cross one of the major streets. Dat is a great person, a Karen villager learning English.
Thursday, January 29, 2009
Week One
Sukhothai
Wat at Grand Palace Reclining Buddha
After One week
Brenda and I have been learning the ropes for the last week, finding out how the people react to travelers. We have discovered scammers and honest folks, with the most congenial folks in rural areas and outside Bangkok.
Bangkok is a fantastic city, jammed and unplanned, with massive traffic jams and miles of streets lined with street sellers selling EVERYTHING!
Found the skytrain and the river ferry to be the best way to get around, so we took them several times to explore the complex of temples along the river. Can't describe it except to say that the wats (temples) are one of the most astounding things we have ever seen. The forty metere long reclining Buddha in one temple, and the one metre high Emerald Buddha in another, were truly moving. The grounds around the temples are astounding.
Finally out of Bangkok, we took a bus for $4 to Pak Chong and stayed in a nice place with a swimming pool. Next day to Khoa Yai National Park and took a guided walk in the jungle looking for animals. Missed seeing elephants, but saw hornbills, monkeys and gibbons.
Then after a nine hour bus ride, landed in a historic town of Sukhothais and rode bikes (rent $1 a day) through the complex of 800 year old temples, the site of the first Siam empire.
Buddha is everywhere!
Today we took a guided bike ride through rice, chile, and tobacco fields, and small villages. Great guide and pleasant trip. Also visited the market, with an opportunity to eat BBQ rat. The Brenda refused. The people eat just about everything from pig heads to bugs.
So, everything is cheap. We have been in a place for the last 3 nights for 400 baht or 10 dollars private bath and shower. We have been having meals of about 30 to 60 baht.
35 baht=1$
Weather really warm and toasty, but the fanned rooms keep it comfortable at night.
Off to Chaing Mei and some trekking to hill villages.
Wat at Grand Palace Reclining Buddha
After One week
Brenda and I have been learning the ropes for the last week, finding out how the people react to travelers. We have discovered scammers and honest folks, with the most congenial folks in rural areas and outside Bangkok.
Bangkok is a fantastic city, jammed and unplanned, with massive traffic jams and miles of streets lined with street sellers selling EVERYTHING!
Found the skytrain and the river ferry to be the best way to get around, so we took them several times to explore the complex of temples along the river. Can't describe it except to say that the wats (temples) are one of the most astounding things we have ever seen. The forty metere long reclining Buddha in one temple, and the one metre high Emerald Buddha in another, were truly moving. The grounds around the temples are astounding.
Finally out of Bangkok, we took a bus for $4 to Pak Chong and stayed in a nice place with a swimming pool. Next day to Khoa Yai National Park and took a guided walk in the jungle looking for animals. Missed seeing elephants, but saw hornbills, monkeys and gibbons.
Then after a nine hour bus ride, landed in a historic town of Sukhothais and rode bikes (rent $1 a day) through the complex of 800 year old temples, the site of the first Siam empire.
Buddha is everywhere!
Today we took a guided bike ride through rice, chile, and tobacco fields, and small villages. Great guide and pleasant trip. Also visited the market, with an opportunity to eat BBQ rat. The Brenda refused. The people eat just about everything from pig heads to bugs.
So, everything is cheap. We have been in a place for the last 3 nights for 400 baht or 10 dollars private bath and shower. We have been having meals of about 30 to 60 baht.
35 baht=1$
Weather really warm and toasty, but the fanned rooms keep it comfortable at night.
Off to Chaing Mei and some trekking to hill villages.
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